sewtakeahike

pressing tip: seam roller

 

Before we get into the seam roller tips, I just have to show you my little bunny.  I mean seriously, he must be a bunny because only bunnies are this cute, right??!

 

 

Ok, now we can get to business.

 

 

Many of you know I use this seam roller when I sew.  In fact, I use it almost every time I sew.  A few reasons why I use this specific seam roller is that it is only an inch or so wide and as you can see in the photo, the wooden roller part is rounded and not flat.  This keeps the fabric from getting distorted as I use it.  Many times people see my seam roller and think they can just use any old brayer or pastry roller.  But believe me, it's just not the same.

When I paper piece, as I sew sections of a pattern, I use my seam roller to press instead of getting up and pressing with an iron after each addition of fabric.

 

 

In the top left corner photo, I have sewn the first two pieces of fabric to the pattern, then in the top right corner photo, I press the seam open by opening the fabrics and rolling the seam roller over the seam. 

I then sew the next piece of fabric onto the section and turn and press that seam open.  At that point, I starch and press the section with an iron and trim the section up as you can see in the final photo. 

I was asked if using a seam roller means I don't iron.  Not at all!  As I explained, I use it to make the addition of fabrics quicker as I paper piece, but then at the end, I starch and press.

 

Next, I use the seam roller to open seams as I sew, especially when sewing blocks together as I assemble quilts.

 

 

Because it doesn't distort or pull the fabric (because of the rounded roller), I don't have to worry about not being able to match seams up easily as I sew the rows together. 

I open all the seams with the roller because I like the way an open seam appears flat from the front of the block instead of having that stairstep look. 

So basically, I sew the blocks together in rows, opening and seam rolling each block seam with the seam roller after the row is sewn together.  Then, as I sew the rows of blocks together, I will seam roll each long seam open.  Once the rows are all sewn together, I will starch and press the entire quilt with an iron.  The initial seam rolling step will make the chore of pressing with the iron much quicker.

The only drawback I've had with my seam roller is that over time, the seam roller may start to drop dark residue from the metal roller bar rubbing against the metal frame.  To make sure this doesn't happen to you (it's no fun trying to get the residue off your fabric!), use a drop of sewing machine oil on the the metal bar.  One drop on the right and one on the left.  Once you've put the oil onto the roller bar, roll the seam roller several times and then wipe away the extra oil.  This will keep the roller from dropping residue and you'll notice it rolls a lot smoother after you do this.

 

I hope this helps!

xo,

Penny

 

snowball QAL tips

 

If you're looking for the initial Snowball QAL post, it is here

and the flickr group is here!

 

Just a few tips to make your snowball block production quicker should you use the pattern I provided! 

But before we get into that, make sure and join the flickr Snowball QAL group!

First, instead of completing the snowballs one at a time, do the snowballs in batches, cutting, then sewing and trimming several at one time.

 

 

So in other words, I cut all my triangles and squares and patterns and then stacked them like this so I can sit at my machine and just sew all the triangles on; not having to get from my machine over and over.

 

Once they are all sewn

 

 

I will press them all, then trim them all.  Make sense? 

Doing this "production" type sewing will definitely speed things along!

I like to do them in batches of 30 or so.  Only because that immediate gratification part of me dictates it this way if you get my drift!

xo,

Penny

Snowball Along!

 

 

So apparently this is what I do when I'm sick.  Start a couple of new quilts.  I've been battling a cold for a week and the last few days it's getting the better of me. 

 

So first I started my polka quilt out of my asterisk block. 

 

 

I have three of the blocks completed and that's a quilt I will be taking my time on.

Now, I'm starting a Snowball quilt.  Contrary to my Asterisk blocks, these blocks are super quick.  And because it's hard for me to sit still even when I'm sick, I've started a Snowball Along.

There are several ways you could do these blocks, and it's probably no surprise to you that the easiest way for me is to foundation piece them.  So that's the technique I'm going to share with you today. 

But first, a few details.

• each snowball block finishes at 4" square
• the solid I am using is connecting threads "verdigris"
• this is the perfect block to use up your scraps
• my finished quilt will consist of 288 snowball blocks (16 across and 18 down)

 

 

Here we go!

What you will need:

• Print off this pdf that has 4 snowball foundation patterns on it and then cut each snowball pattern out separately.
• solid fabric cut into 2 1/2" strips and each strip cut into 3" lengths.  Then cut these 2 1/2" X3" rectangles in half, into triangles.
• scraps that are at least 5" square for the center of the snowball

 

Choose your center fabric (scraps work really well for this!) and trim it at least 1/4"  past all edges of the pattern.

 

With the right side of the pattern up, and the right side of the fabric down, align one of your solid triangles in one of the corners so it overlaps the corner mark by at least 1/4", and sew through the layers along the line. 

 

Repeat with the other 3 corners.

 

Turn the corners of the paper pattern in and trim the center print fabric somewhat even with the edges of the solid fabric.

 

Fold the paper corners back out

 

then press the solid fabric out to cover the paper corners.

Turn the block over, and trim the edges, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance of fabric past the edge of each side of the paper pattern.

 

Now all you have to do is make 287(!) more (that will give you a 64"X 72" quilt) and I'll meet you back here in a few days and we can assemble them!  I can't wait to see your fabric choices!

 

xo,

Penny

 

modified infinity scarf tutorial {a gift for you}...

 

 

 

The winter weather we're (finally) having is warming my heart and making me want to wear warm things around my neck.  So a week ago I made an infinity scarf, which I love, but wanted to customize it a bit more to the length I prefer and add some flannel to the inside for an extra cozy feel. 

Also, I shortened the length from the other tutorials I found so it wouldn't hang so low.  In doing that, I wanted to give an alternative to putting it on over the head since I usually put my scarves on as I'm walking out the door, after my hair and makeup are done.

 

This scarf is really super simple, and will take you about 30 minutes to make.  I hope you enjoy this little Christmas gift from me to you!

 

What you will need:

• 52" X 11 1/2" outside fabric
• 52" X 11 1/2" lining fabric (I used flannel)
• 3 buttons
• water soluable marker
• three 2 5/8" lengths of 1/8" cording (I used my size 6 clover biased tape maker to make the 1/4" tape then folded it in half and sewed the folded edges together to get the 1/8" cording.  Also, with the size 6 bias tape maker, you start with a 1/2" strip of fabric.  Here's a pic of sewing the folded 1/4" tape in half.  I had to move my needle position to get the feed dogs to feed it through:

 

Note:  All seam allowances are 3/8".

 

Directions:

1. With right sides together, sew the lining and outside pieces together along one of the 52" edges and press the seam open.

2. Sew a gathering stitch along the two shorter ends of the joined lining and outside fabrics.  Do this by lengthening your stitch length as much as you can and sewing 1/8" and then 1/4" from each edge.

3. Pull the threads on one side of your gathering stitches to gather the scarf ends so they are 12".  Make sure the lining and the outside fabrics are evenly gathered, so each one is 6". 

4. Topstitch 1/4" from each edge to tack the gathers down.

5. Fold your three lengths of cording in half and pin them down along the edge of the short edge of outside fabric, lining up the raw edges of the cording with the edge of the fabric with the loops inwards.  Topstitch the loops down so they don't shift.

 

 

6. Fold the scarf in half, right sides together along the first long seam you sewed, and pin the three remaining edges together.  Sew the three edges together, leaving a 3" hole along the long edge for turning.

7. Turn the scarf, press, and either hand sew the opening closed or topstitch it closed with your machine.

8. Evenly mark and sew your buttons onto the gathered edge that doesn't have the loops, about 1 1/2" from the gathered edge.

You are done! 

 

I would love to see the scarves you make from this tutorial!  Please post them to the sewtakeahike flickr group here!

 

xo,

Penny

flexing my liberty scrap challenge

I so appreciate the lovely Nova and Jo for allowing me to be a part of the Liberty scrap challenge.  Jo sent a beautiful parcel of liberty to me, including a mini scrap pack of liberty, and it took about two seconds for me to decide what to make.

btw, have you seen the liberty crack Jo offers in her shop?  If you want to just eat it up like I do, make sure you read to the end of this post!

On to the project!

 

 

Today I'm going to give you the basics for making this flex frame frosty bag.

What you will need:

• two liberty pieces 8"X 4 1/2" plus some scraps for piecing frosty
• linen 8"X4 1/2" plus some scraps for piecing frosty
• embroidery thread
• 1 flex frame (just search for flex frame on etsy)
• one Frosty pattern printed at size, no scaling

Directions:

1. Print your pattern and piece each section then sew the sections together, matching tick lines.  Make sure and leave 1/4" seam allowance around each section.  If you are new to paper piecing or need a refresher, here is a free download on sew-ichigo with lots of tips.

2.  Stitch around frosty with embroidery thread, within about 1/8".

3.  Layer the 8"X 4/1/2" piece of linen with the frosty block, right sides together.  Mark 2 1/4" from the top.

 

Pin and sew around the bottom of the layers, starting at the mark on the R side and ending at the mark on the L side, leaving the top section unsewn. Oh!  And make sure and backstitch at the beginning and end.

4.  Repeat step 3 with lining pieces, leaving a 2" opening in the bottom for turning.

5.  Turn the lining piece right side out and stuff down inside the outside of the bag so the right sides are together and the top flaps line up.  Pin each of the lining flaps to the linen flap it is right sides together with.

 

6.  Sew the pinned flaps together, starting and ending stitching on each flap as close to the center stitching as possible.

7.  Turn the bag right side out through the turn hole in the lining and push both flaps out, using a bone folder to get the corners turned.

8.  Slip stitch hole in lining closed.

9.  Push the lining down into the bag and then turn the back flap into the bag so the top seam of the flap is even with where the flap starts.  Pin in place and stitch down close to the flap edge.

10.  Repeat step 9 with the other flap.

11.  Following the directions on your flex frame package, undo one side of the flex frame, insert one side of the flex frame into each tunnel on each flap, and replace the pin for the frame.

 

And there you have it!  A little gift bag or ornament bag!

And now, for those that have made it all the way through, you have a chance to win a sweet liberty scrap pack (or crack pack as I call it) from Jo.  Just leave a comment on this post telling me if you've paper pieced before and if you haven't, what kind of pattern design would make you want to learn to paper piece and you will be entered in a the drawing.  I'll choose a name on Monday!

The giveaway is now closed!

Good luck!

xo,

Penny